Designing Your Backyard With Arborvitae
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Clarify Your Space and Design Goals
- Matching the Kit: Choosing the Right Variety
- Design Strategies for a Cohesive Look
- Preparing the Environment: Soil, Sunlight, and Spacing
- The Role of Tools and Equipment
- Performance Trade-offs: Materials and Quality
- When This Might Not Be the Right Fit
- Maintaining Your Design: The Iterative Process
- Conclusion
- FAQ
Introduction
There is a specific kind of quiet frustration that comes from sitting on your back porch, morning coffee in hand, only to realize you are making direct eye contact with your neighbor through a gap in the fence. Or perhaps you’ve spent your Saturday morning hauling heavy bags of mulch, trying to hide a rusted air conditioning unit or a drab concrete wall that refuses to look "natural." We have all been there—kneeling in the dirt, untangling a kinked garden hose for the third time, wondering how to turn a flat, exposed patch of grass into a private, living sanctuary.
Designing a backyard that feels both structured and secluded is one of the most rewarding challenges a home gardener can face. Arborvitae, a group of versatile evergreen conifers often called the "Tree of Life," is frequently the answer to these design dilemmas. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first "living fence," a busy homeowner wanting low-maintenance greenery, or a container gardener seeking vertical interest for a patio, arborvitae offers a range of solutions that go far beyond the standard hedge.
In this guide, we will explore the nuances of arborvitae backyard design. We will cover how to select the right varieties for your specific climate, how to arrange them for maximum visual impact, and the practical steps needed to ensure they thrive for years to come. At Garden Green Land, we believe that a successful garden is built on a "Grow with Intention" approach: first, clarify your space and goals; second, match the kit to your environment; third, prepare the soil and surroundings; fourth, choose your tools and plants with durability in mind; and finally, iterate your design as the seasons change.
Clarify Your Space and Design Goals
Before you head to the nursery or start digging holes, you must define what you want your arborvitae to actually do. Arborvitae is not a one-size-fits-all plant; a variety that works as a towering windbreak on a farm will be a disaster in a small suburban side yard.
Privacy and Screening
The most common goal for arborvitae backyard design is privacy. If your primary objective is to block out the view of the street or a neighboring house, you are looking for height and density. Varieties like 'Emerald Green' (Smaragd) provide a classic, narrow, and dense wall of green. If you have a larger property and need a fast-growing screen, the 'Green Giant' can add three feet of height per year, quickly creating a massive green curtain.
Defining Garden "Rooms"
You might not need total privacy, but rather a way to define different areas of your outdoor space. Low-growing, mounded varieties can act as soft "walls" that separate a dining area from a play area. Using plants to create structure makes a backyard feel larger and more intentional.
Visual Interest and Accents
Not every arborvitae needs to be in a row. Some varieties, particularly those with golden or variegated foliage like 'Anna’s Magic Ball' or 'Golden Globe', serve as excellent focal points. Their unique colors and shapes provide contrast against darker green shrubs or colorful perennials.
Windbreaks and Sound Dampening
For those in open areas or near busy roads, a thick row of arborvitae acts as a natural buffer. The dense, scale-like needles are remarkably effective at breaking the force of the wind and muffling the persistent hum of traffic.
Key Takeaway: Start by measuring your space and identifying the "problem areas." Are you solving for a lack of privacy, a need for structure, or a desire for color? Knowing your goal prevents you from over-planting or choosing a variety that will quickly outgrow its welcome.
Matching the Kit: Choosing the Right Variety
Once you know your goal, you must match the plant variety to your specific yard conditions. Arborvitae (the Thuja genus) generally falls into two main categories: American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) and Giant Arborvitae (Thuja plicata).
The American Classics
- 'Emerald Green' (Smaragd): This is the gold standard for suburban backyards. It stays relatively narrow (3–4 feet wide) and grows to about 12–15 feet tall. It keeps its bright green color even in the dead of winter and is very cold-hardy (Zones 3-7).
- 'North Pole': An even narrower version of the Emerald Green, perfect for those tight gaps between the house and the property line.
- 'Tater Tot' and 'Anna’s Magic Ball': These are dwarf, globe-shaped varieties. They grow slowly and rarely need pruning, making them ideal for rock gardens or the front of a mixed border.
The Giants
- 'Green Giant': This is a hybrid that can reach 50–60 feet tall. It is incredibly fast-growing and more resistant to deer than the American varieties. However, it needs a lot of room—don't plant this three feet from your house.
- 'Spring Grove': A Thuja plicata variety known for its deep green, glossy foliage and excellent cold hardiness. It’s a great choice for a large-scale screen in northern climates.
Container-Friendly Options
If you are a balcony gardener or have a paved patio, you aren't left out. Dwarf varieties like 'Little Giant' or 'Hetz Midget' thrive in large pots. They provide year-round structure without the need for a backyard plot.
What to do next:
- Check your USDA Hardiness Zone to ensure the variety you want can survive your winters.
- Observe your yard for 24 hours to see which areas get "full sun" (at least 6 hours of direct light).
- Measure the distance from your planned planting line to any permanent structures (fences, foundations, power lines).
If you’re planning container arborvitae for a patio, check our grow bag options and planters for container-ready choices: Grow Bags collection.
Design Strategies for a Cohesive Look
A row of trees is a start, but a truly designed backyard uses arborvitae as a structural element that integrates with the rest of the landscape.
The Linear Screen vs. The Staggered Row
If you have a long, straight property line, a single line of 'Emerald Green' creates a formal, tidy look. However, if you have the depth (at least 8–10 feet of planting space), consider a "staggered" or zig-zag pattern. This creates a more natural, woodland feel and allows for better airflow between the trees, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
Framing and Layering
Think of your tallest arborvitae as the "backdrop" of a stage. You can plant shorter, colorful shrubs or flowering perennials (like hydrangeas or hostas) in front of them. The dark green of the arborvitae makes the colors of the flowers pop while hiding the "naked" lower stems that some evergreens develop as they age.
Focal Points and Topiaries
Arborvitae takes well to pruning. You can use a single, tall columnar variety as a "punctuation mark" at the end of a path or the corner of a patio. Some gardeners even prune them into spirals or pom-poms for a more formal, manicured aesthetic.
Mixing Textures and Colors
Don't be afraid to mix different types of evergreens. Pairing the soft, lacy texture of an arborvitae with the sharp needles of a spruce or the broad leaves of a laurel creates a rich, sensory garden.
"A great backyard design isn't just about a wall of green; it's about creating depth. Use arborvitae to establish the 'walls' of your outdoor room, then fill the 'room' with plants that offer different heights, colors, and textures."
For tools that make installation and upkeep easier (timers, controllers, and drip kits), see our watering and irrigation collection for a range of systems suited to hedges and large plantings: Watering & Irrigation.
Preparing the Environment: Soil, Sunlight, and Spacing
You can buy the most expensive, high-quality trees, but they will struggle if the environment isn't ready for them. Arborvitae are relatively hardy, but they have specific "deal-breakers."
Drainage: The "Wet Feet" Problem
Arborvitae love moisture, but they hate "wet feet." This means they want the soil to be damp but not swampy. If you have heavy clay soil where water sits in a puddle for hours after a rain, you must address this before planting.
- The Fix: You can amend the soil with organic matter (compost) to improve structure, or plant the trees in a slightly raised mound so that the excess water drains away from the trunk.
Sunlight Needs
While some varieties (like 'Green Giant' or 'Tater Tot') can handle partial shade, most arborvitaes will become "leggy" or sparse if they don't get enough sun. If the branches look thin and you can see through the tree, it probably needs more light. Aim for a spot with 6 to 8 hours of sun for the densest growth.
Spacing for Longevity
One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is planting trees too close together because they want an "instant" screen.
- The Problem: As the trees grow, they compete for nutrients and water. If they are too crowded, the inner branches will die off from lack of light and airflow, leaving you with a row of trees that are brown and bare on the inside.
- The Rule of Thumb: For a hedge, space 'Emerald Green' about 2–3 feet apart (center to center). For the larger 'Green Giant', give them at least 5–8 feet.
Watering Access
Newly planted arborvitae are very thirsty. For the first year, they need consistent deep watering to establish their root systems. If your planting site is a hundred feet from the nearest faucet, you need a plan—whether that's a high-quality long-reach hose or a dedicated drip irrigation system. For an off-the-shelf controller and timer that integrates with drip systems, consider the Garden irrigation controller product we carry.
The Role of Tools and Equipment
In our experience at Garden Green Land, the right tools make the difference between a chore you dread and a hobby you love. However, it's important to understand what gear can and cannot do.
What the Right Tools CAN Do:
- Consistent Hydration: A soaker hose or a drip irrigation system with a timer ensures your trees get water directly at the roots, even when you're busy. This prevents the "hit or miss" watering that leads to stress and browning.
- Precision Pruning: High-quality bypass pruners or sharp hedge shears make clean cuts that heal quickly. This protects the plant from diseases that enter through ragged, torn branches.
- Protection: Heavy-duty gardening gloves and ergonomic shovels protect your hands and back during the strenuous process of digging planting holes.
- Soil Monitoring: A simple pH and moisture meter can tell you if your soil is too acidic or if you are overwatering, taking the guesswork out of plant care.
What Tools CANNOT Do:
- Replace Routine: No automatic system can replace the "gardener's eye." You still need to walk your line of trees once a week to look for signs of pests or disease.
- Fix the Wrong Location: A high-tech irrigation system won't save an arborvitae planted in a deep shade bog or a scorching, wind-swept desert.
- Guarantee Growth: Tools support the plant, but nature ultimately dictates the pace. You cannot "force" a tree to grow faster with more gadgets; you can only provide the optimal conditions for it to do its best.
If you’re installing container arborvitae or trying self-watering solutions on a patio, our guide on making a self-watering grow bag explains practical assembly and materials: How to Make a Self Watering Grow Bag.
What to do next:
- Invest in a high-quality soaker hose for the first two years of the trees' life.
- Keep a pair of sharp bypass pruners specifically for "deadheading" any brown tips or broken branches.
- Buy a bag of organic mulch (like shredded cedar or pine bark) to lay around the base of the trees immediately after planting.
Performance Trade-offs: Materials and Quality
When designing your backyard, you will face choices regarding materials—not just the plants themselves, but the gear you use to support them.
Stainless Steel vs. Coated Steel Tools
When choosing a spade or shovel for planting your arborvitae, you’ll notice price differences. Stainless steel is more expensive but resists rust and allows the soil to "slide" off the blade more easily—a huge benefit in sticky clay. Coated carbon steel is stronger and often cheaper but requires more maintenance (cleaning and oiling) to prevent rust.
Manual vs. Automatic Watering
If you have three arborvitaes in pots, a watering can is fine. If you have a 50-foot hedge, a manual hose becomes a burden.
- Soaker Hoses: These are porous hoses that "sweat" water. They are inexpensive and easy to set up.
- Drip Irrigation: More complex to install, but more efficient because it delivers specific amounts of water to each plant. It’s the gold standard for long-term health in large designs.
Fabric vs. Plastic Pots (for Container Design)
If you are growing dwarf arborvitae on a patio, consider the container material.
- Fabric Pots: These provide excellent drainage and "air-prune" the roots, preventing them from circling the pot. However, they dry out faster.
- Ceramic or Plastic: These hold moisture longer but must have large drainage holes. In cold climates, cheap plastic can crack during a freeze; look for "freeze-thaw resistant" materials or high-quality resin.
Fertilizer Types
Arborvitae rarely need heavy feeding if the soil is good. However, if you use a fertilizer, a slow-release granular version is safer than a liquid one. High-nitrogen fertilizers (the first number in the N-P-K ratio, like 10-8-6) encourage the lush, green foliage we all want. Always follow the label instructions; more is definitely not better when it comes to tree fertilizer.
To browse practical hand tools and planting sets that pair well with arborvitae installation, see our Garden Tools collection: Garden Tools.
When This Might Not Be the Right Fit
As much as we love arborvitae at Garden Green Land, we believe in being honest about when a different approach is better.
Heavy Deer Pressure
In many regions, American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) is essentially "deer candy." If you have a high population of deer and don't want to spray repellents every week or install a seven-foot fence, arborvitae might not be for you. In these cases, look toward 'Green Giant' (which is less palatable to deer) or consider non-arborvitae alternatives like Junipers or Hollies.
Extremely Dry or Desert Climates
Arborvitae are native to cool, moist regions. While they can grow in warmer areas (up to Zone 8), they struggle in the intense, dry heat of the Southwest. If you live in a desert climate, the water bill required to keep a row of arborvitae alive will be astronomical. Xeriscaping with native evergreens is a more responsible choice.
Small Balconies with Heavy Wind
While dwarf varieties can grow in pots, a tall, narrow arborvitae in a container acts like a sail. If you have a high-rise balcony that gets significant wind, a tall arborvitae is likely to blow over, potentially damaging the plant or the container. Lower, mounded shrubs are a safer bet for windy heights.
Budget Constraints
Planting a full-grown privacy screen is expensive. While you can save money by buying smaller "starts," it will take 5–10 years for them to provide the privacy you want. If you need privacy this weekend, a wooden fence or a privacy lattice is the better tool for the job.
If you need help choosing the right product or collection for your project, visit our main storefront to explore options or reach out through our site: Garden Green Land homepage.
Maintaining Your Design: The Iterative Process
Gardening is not a "one and done" project. Your backyard will change as the trees mature.
The First Year: Establishment
The goal here is survival. Water deeply twice a week (more in extreme heat). Do not prune in the first year; let the plant put all its energy into the roots.
Year Two and Three: Shaping
Once the trees are established, you can start light pruning in early spring to encourage thicker growth. Always prune "green to green"—never cut back into the old, brown wood inside the tree, as arborvitae cannot sprout new growth from old wood.
Winter Care
In areas with heavy snow, the weight of the ice can splay open the branches of columnar varieties like 'Emerald Green'.
- Pro Tip: You can gently wrap the trees with bird netting or twine in late autumn to keep the branches tucked in. This prevents the "snow splay" that can permanently misshape a tree.
Monitoring for Pests
Keep an eye out for bagworms (which look like small, cone-shaped ornaments made of needles) and spider mites (which cause fine webbing and bronzing of the foliage). Catching these early with a blast of water or an organic insecticidal soap is much easier than treating a full infestation.
Key Takeaway: Iteration means observing. If one tree in your row is struggling while the others thrive, don't just keep doing the same thing. Check the drainage at that specific spot or look for a localized pest issue. Change one variable at a time until you find the solution.
Conclusion
Designing your backyard with arborvitae is a journey that moves from the practical to the beautiful. By following the "Grow with Intention" approach, you can transform a vulnerable, exposed yard into a resilient, private sanctuary that increases your home's value and your own daily peace of mind.
- Clarify your space and goals: Determine if you need height for privacy, mounds for structure, or gold tones for accent.
- Match the kit: Choose the right species (American vs. Giant) and variety for your specific hardiness zone and yard dimensions.
- Prepare the environment: Ensure well-draining soil and adequate sunlight; don't skip the prep work.
- Choose tools with intention: Invest in quality watering systems and sharp pruners that make maintenance a breeze rather than a burden.
- Iterate: Watch your trees grow, adjust your watering with the seasons, and prune lightly to maintain the shape you love.
At Garden Green Land, we know that the best tool in your garden isn't something you buy at a store—it's your own patience and observation. A backyard design featuring arborvitae is a long-term investment in your outdoor living space. Start small, plant carefully, and watch as your "tree of life" brings your landscape to life.
FAQ
How far apart should I plant arborvitae for a privacy fence?
For the popular 'Emerald Green' variety, space them 2 to 3 feet apart measured from the center of one trunk to the next. For the much larger 'Green Giant', you should provide at least 5 to 8 feet of space. Planting too close can lead to poor air circulation and fungal issues as the trees mature.
Why is my arborvitae turning brown in the center?
Some browning in the interior of the tree is actually normal, especially in the fall. This is called "interior needle shed," and it's how the tree gets rid of old foliage that no longer receives light. However, if the outer tips are turning brown, it is usually a sign of either underwatering, overwatering (root rot), or "winter burn" from cold, drying winds.
Can I grow arborvitae in large pots or containers?
Yes, but you must choose dwarf varieties like 'Tater Tot', 'Anna’s Magic Ball', or 'Little Giant'. These stay small and have root systems that can tolerate the restricted space of a container. Ensure your pot has excellent drainage and remember that container plants dry out much faster than those in the ground.
How fast do arborvitae trees actually grow?
It depends heavily on the variety. The 'Green Giant' is one of the fastest, often growing 3 feet per year under ideal conditions. The 'Emerald Green' is more moderate, typically growing about 6 to 12 inches per year. Dwarf varieties are slow-growers, adding only an inch or two annually. Proper watering and sunlight are the biggest factors in achieving maximum growth rates.
If you still have specific product questions or want help selecting the right irrigation or planter for your arborvitae project, our customer support and product pages are available through the Garden Green Land site.
